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by Katherine Edwards 25 Mar, 2024
Here's 10 reasons why I love Mantrailing

1. It's dog centered, rather than goal centered.
While there is endless progression with Mantrailing, your dog can go at their own pace. There are no goals to meet, no criteria to gain, no rushing them or pushing them on. We up the ante, when each dog is ready. The goal in a Mantrailing session is for your dog to have a fun, enriching and calming experience. Not to win a medal. There is no going wrong for your dog, it is impossible for them to put a foot wrong! While there are assessments and goals you can work towards, they're all optional.

2. The community spirit.
Mantrailing sessions are great socialising for humans too! Everyone there wants your dog to succeed, and everyone celebrates each others wins together. It's an understanding community of dog lovers, who won't judge a dog for their quirks, and will participate to make each session fun for each individual dog. There is no competition, and in fact, uniqueness is celebrated!

3. No obedience allowed!
No barking orders, no yanking, no yelling, no otherwise telling your dog what to do. Mantrailing is a dogs game, they're the experts here. We are simply here to observe in awe, and learn to be a supportive handler.

4. It's incredibly enriching for our dogs.
Tracking is a natural dog behaviour, one they are often prevented from doing. Mantrailing allows them to fulfil their most basic need to sniff, in a fun and constructive way. Sniffing has been proven to reduce stress in dogs and release happy hormones, and is heavily involved in confidence building, forming new memories.

5. It's for any dog!
There aren't many dog sports that all dogs can take part in. It doesn't matter if your dog is old, young, reactive, nervous, over-excited, barky, fearful, un-trained, a lead puller, a bad recaller.. they all fit in somewhere at Mantrailing. Each individual trail can be adapted to suit each dog and handler.

6. It's low impact.
There are many adrenaline fueled, fast pased sports and games that you can do with your dog. However, these things can be very strenuous both on the body and the mind. While dogs get very excited to Mantrailing, sniffing is an intense mental workout which is very tiring. It is also, for the most part, low impact compared to other sports, as all dogs are on well fitted harnesses and leads at all times.

7. It's great fun!
As a mantrailer you get to take part in the whole game, from handling your dog, to hiding for others, and observing. While working with your own dog is great, It is also great fun hearing the dogs approaching you while waiting in your hiding spot, and celebrating with them when they get to you!

8. It empowers your dog!
In most training scenarios, we are showing our dogs the way. In Mantrailing, they are working independently from us, doing something they are experts at. We simply support, follow on, and learn! This is fantastic for confidence building, by teaching your dog to problem solve on their own.

9. It has the power to help nervous dogs!
While working with an anxious dog takes lots of different approaches, Mantrailing is definitely a beneficial thing to do with anxious dogs. While working, Mantrailing dogs can eventually learn to trail around the things that worry them - be it people, dogs, noises or traffic. This teaches them that they can do something fun, and safe in the presence of these things, encourages ignorance and so builds their confidence around them.

10. No commitments!
While you'll progress a lot better by attending regularly, there is no pressure to come to Mantrailing all the time. Some come every week, some come every few months! There is no reason your dog can't pick up where they left off.

Want to get involved? Send me an email training@unleashingpossibilities.co.uk, or look at the Mantrailing UK/ Uk scent sport map to find an instructor local to you!
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
After seeing a post warning of the dangers of 'New age behaviorists refusing to punish dogs, and even claiming dogs do not have pack animals in their DNA' I wanted to give an evidence based insight into the subject, sorry its a long one!

As pet owners and canine professionals, it is vital we understand how our dogs communicate and interact socially in order to help resolve behaviour problems. The idea that dog’s form packs with
strict hierarchies, maintained by displays of dominance and submission, is one of the most prevalent theories among dog owners and professionals alike. However, many are now starting to question its accuracy. Some will argue that dog’s form strict linear hierarchies and we must be our dog’s alpha or pack leader in order to prevent every behaviour problem from lead pulling to severe aggression.Others argue that dogs are not pack animals and are instead social opportunists and so we do not
need to be the `pack leader’ in order to prevent behaviour problems, instead, we must simply
understand how to motivate our dogs and how they learn.

Out of interest I wanted a better understanding of the view on this topic from the public compared to professionally educated dog trainers. I completed a short survey which I shared on social media.
In this survey I asked participants their age, if they had ever had any dog training related education, whether they had worked with dogs and if they believed in hierarchy/pack structure and the alpha
dog. My survey revealed interestingly that the older generation were much more likely to believe that pack structure existed and dogs would challenge humans and other dogs in order to become
‘alpha’. Many answered that they believed dogs lived in packs but did not believe they were in a battle for dominance. All of those who had studied canine behaviour at university didn’t believe
dogs formed packs or had alphas. Many who said they did believe in alpha dog’s and pack structure said they had learnt this information from tv shows and interestingly, from professional dog trainers too.
This makes sense considering that during the 1900’s the main theory regarding the social behaviour of the domestic dog was that, when living in groups, canine social relationships are managed
through formation of a linear dominance hierarchy. Pack structure / dominance theory suggests that each individual in a pack holds a rank and that higher-ranking individuals have priority access to
resources, have the right to breed and initiate social interactions ahead of those lower in the ranks . Lower ranking dogs are kept `in their place’ by displays of dominance by higher ranking individuals. Lower ranking dogs may also challenge higher ranking individuals in an attempt to improve their social status within the pack. All domestic dogs are said to have an innate desire to achieve the ‘alpha’ status.

The concept of social ‘dominance’ relationships in animals began with Thorleif Schjelderup-Ebbe’s studies of captive groups of domestic chickens in the early 1920s (Schjelderup-Ebbe, 1922). He found that chickens had a ‘pecking order’ in which the most dominant individuals in the group had the best access to resources such as food, and would maintain their status with ‘dominant’ behaviours such as pecking other birds (Schjelderup-Ebbe, 1922).
The idea that wolves and therefore dogs form packs with strict hierarchies came from the then ground-breaking paper by Rudolph Schenkel (1947) “expression studies on wolves”. At this point,
there was very little / no information regarding the behaviour of wolves the did not live in captivity.
Schenkel studied captive wolves in the Basle zoological garden in 1934, he then extended his research in 1939 to include observations from other canine species in the zoo such as raccoon dogs, and finally domestic dogs (Schenkel, 1947). His studies concluded that the wolves lived in a pack ruled by one male (the alpha) and his alpha female. Violent rivalries occurred between the wolves which existed to maintain the social structure. The alpha dog maintains his status in the pack my regular displays of dominance over the other males in the group (Schenkel, 1947). The
subordinate wolves in the group will fight to raise their social rank and are sometimes, but rarely, successful in taking the position of alpha (Schenkel, 1947).

Scott and fuller (1965) continued with this behaviour model when investigating the behaviour of domestic dogs in captivity, raised independently from humans. They stated that these wild dogs
lived in a pack and defended their territory just like wild wolves would, and that pet dogs display this behaviour too when they defend their home (Scott and fuller, 1965). In their book, they state
“Within a natural social group, agonistic behaviour is reduced to a relationship of dominance and subordination. This may take several forms, depending on the degree of dominance. Some dogs
simply growl at each other and move apart. More typically, the dominant dog places his feet on the back of the other, growling as he does so, while the subordinate one keeps his head and tail
lowered. A still more subordinate animal may roll over on his back while the dominant one stands over him, head-to-head; the subordinate animal rapidly snaps his teeth and yelps. “(Scott and Fuller, 1965). They also noted other dominant or submissive behaviour such as a submissive dog avoiding eye contact with a more dominant dog (Scott and Fuller, 1965). Many other studies reported similar findings. For example, Rabb, Woolply and Ginsburg (1957) Studied captive wolf behaviour and noted dominance and submission behaviour patterns between same sex individuals and the exitance of an alpha male who was the most dominant individual in the pack.

Dr David Mech, citing Schenkel’s work, published his book “The Wolf: Ecology and Behaviour of an Endangered Species,” in the 1970’s, plus hundreds of scientific papers which support the idea that wolves form packs with strict hierarchies, led by an alpha male wolf (Mech, 2005). It was then thought that dogs were likely domesticated when humans captured and raised wolf pups, who were then gradually selectively bred into the domestic dog breeds we have today . Therefore, wolf behaviour was a good indicator of dog behaviour and should dictate how to raise and train our dog’s.
. Supporting this, Bruce Fogle argues that by giving in to our dog’s demands, we may be showing them
that we are weak and this may lead them to challenge our position in the pack (Fogle, 1992).
Dominance aggression, may therefore be a result of not maintaining our position as the pack leader. The alpha roll, first popularized by the monks of new skete in the 1978 book How to Be Your Dog's Best Friend (Monks of New Skete, 1978) is one of the ways we are taught to deal with dominance in
our dog’s, based on the idea that a more dominant dog will force another dog onto their back.
This theory is still very prevalent today. As Ceasar Millan states on his website, dogs are pack animals
who form packs with humans and other dog in their home (Millan, 2020). . He claims behaviour problems in dogs are caused by owners who fail to be their dog’s pack leader. While he is by far not the only dog trainer who used dominance-based training techniques such as alpha rolling, he is the most famous, and one of the main reason's dominance theory is so widely accepted by pet owners.

However, Milan actually has no formal education in canine behaviour as stated on his website (Millan, 2021). He attributes his success to owning dog’s his whole life, like so many others. So, should we really be listening to a man with no qualifications?

In recent years, more and more professional dog trainers are claiming that there is no need to be your dogs ‘pack leader’ and that dominance-based training methods are actually damaging to our dogs.

The first problem modern dog trainers see with dominance theory is that dogs are not wolves. As Shenkar states” when we want to study cats, we look at cat behaviour. When we want to study horses, we look at horse behaviour, but when we want to study dogs, we look at wolves”.

Wolves and dogs diverged from their last common ancestor between 11,000 and 41,000 years ago (Pomery, undated). Although they are distantly related, dogs and wolves are different subspecies, and the two have very different behaviours and physical characteristics. For example, while wolves have a breeding pair in their group, dogs are promiscuous and opportunistic breeders, any male has the chance to breed when the opportunity arises so there is no need for an alpha male (Shenkar,undated).

Studies into wild dog behaviour has not produced the same results as studies into wolf behaviour. For example, Roberto Bonanni et al (2010) looked at free-ranging packs of dogs in Italy and found that leadership between dogs was fluid and varied from situation to situation. For example, in one pack, which had 27 members, there were 6 dogs that took turns leading the pack, but at least half of the adult dogs were leaders, at least some of the time. The dog’s that led the pack were usually the most experienced, rather than the most dominant. Furthermore, Coppinger and Coppinger (2001)
studied feral dogs and found most will live independently or in small, fluid groups. Unlike wolves, when a bitch comes into season, any male is free to mate with her, and she will raise the pups on her own (Coppinger and Coppinger, 2001).

Furthermore, even if wolf behaviour was representative of dog behaviour, the information we had on wolf pack structure was based on captive wolves, and not representative of wild wolf behaviour. The famous study on this subject conducted by Rudolf Schenkel (1947) that we discussed above was done on a pack of up to ten wolves kept in a 200 m2 pen. These wolves were not representative of a wild wolf pack because they were unrelated and in captivity meaning that understandably, tensions would be high and rivalries common. Were we looking, for example, at two captive wild animals fighting over a high value resource such as food or sleeping space, or, were we looking at an alpha wolf maintaining his position through violent displays?

We know that wolves, unlike dogs, are not friendly with unrelated wolves, so surely this behaviour would be expected. As Mech states in the introduction of his study on wild wolves “Attempting to apply information about the behaviour of assemblages of unrelated captive wolves to the familial structure of natural packs has resulted in considerable confusion. Such an approach is analogous to trying to draw inferences about human family dynamics by studying humans in refugee camps. The concept of the alpha wolf as a ‘top dog’ ruling a group of similar-aged compatriots is particularly misleading” (Mech,1999).

Moreover, Mech, who previously supported Schenkel’s findings and published his book about wolf pack structure, has since doubled back on what he once stated as fact and now claims he was wrong. On his website he states that although his book is still available to buy, he is desperately trying to remove it from circulation (Mech,2021). He has learnt a lot since then, and the reality is that wolves do not have strict linear hierarchies maintained by displays of dominance, but rather wolf packs are simply family units, with one breeding pair and the other members being their offspring (Mech, 2021). There is rarely any need for displays of dominance as the other wolves naturally follow the oldest and wisest members. All members eat together, hunt together and sleep together as a family. He also states that young members of any wolf pack eventually disperse to form their own family, therefore forcing them to stay together for many years while studying captive wolves, is bound to cause conflict (Mech, 1999). Mech also challenges the idea that some wolves are naturally dominant or submissive, as is claimed by many dog trainers today, stating any wolf has the chance to lead a pack, all he has to do is breed (Mech, 1999).

If dogs are not wolves, and wolves don’t form linear hierarchies, then why can’t we move on from dominance theory as dog trainers? As the Pet professional Guild states on their website “It is the position of the Pet Professional Guild (PPG) that dominance theory is an obsolete and aversive method of interacting with animals that has at its foundation incorrect and misinterpreted data which can result in damage to the animal-human relationship and cause behavioural problems in the animal”. The dominance model of dog training has its foundations in a number of concepts which
have now been proven to be false (Bradshaw, 2011).

However, the problem is dominance type training can work and can seem to make total sense. While many believe this is because the theory is correct, I believe this is often due to a phenomenon called “learned helplessness”. Learned helplessness was discovered by Seligman in 1967. In short, he discovered that when he repeatedly electrocuted dogs and gave them no way to escape, when they did eventually have a clear escape route, they didn’t choose it and instead stayed put and suffered electrocution again (Kelsing, 2010). The dogs had learnt that there was nothing they could do to improve their situation so even when given an escape, believed they could not take it. Learned helplessness can be seen in dogs who have been trained with harsh dominance type methods. For example, a dog who barks at other dogs to communicate that he is scared may be pinned to the floor by a dominance type trainer. After repetition the dog learns that even though he is scared, there is nothing he can do to improve his situation, so he stays quiet. While many would claim the dog has learned he is no longer ‘alpha’ and so is ‘behaving’ it would be clear to me that the dog is suffering intense emotional distress and is failing to respond to a scary situation because he believes there is no way out.

As stated in Barry Eatons book (2008) much of the behaviours we claim as dominance in domestic dogs are actually human social constructs. For example, at work it would be rude not to open a door for your boss, to allow them to walk through it first. Therefore, we believe that when a dog walks through a door before us, they are challenging our dominant position. However, there are no doors in the wild for dogs to open to allow their ‘alpha’ to walk through. In reality, this behaviour is simply a dog excited to leave the house. Furthermore, others are simply based on misconceptions. For example, the idea that the alpha wolf always eats first, and therefore we should always eat before our dogs, is a myth. In reality, most of the time the whole wolf pack eats at the same time, and, if food is scarce, it is the pups who eat first (Eaton, 2008). Another example would be the idea that we shouldn’t let dogs on furniture, to ensure they are lower down than we are, because a high-ranking wolf is always higher up than lower ranking wolves. This, again, is a misconception. As Eaton (2008) explains, the adult wolves often sleep in a high position so they have a good vantage point to warn off intruders, and the younger wolves would be lower down, where it is safer.

As discussed above, the alpha roll is a common method of ‘training’ used by dog trainers who believe in dominance theory. In his book ‘The intelligence of dogs’ Stanley Coren states “You should deliberately manipulate and restrain your dog on a regular basis, placing it in a position that, for wild canids, signifies submission to the authority of a dominant member of the pack” (Coren, 2006).

However, as Eaton (2008) states, this behaviour in wolves is actually voluntary and can be seen when a wolf rolls onto his back when approached by another wolf, at no point is a wolf forced onto their back by another wolf. Furthermore, while many believe dog’s do in fact display this behaviour McConnell (2002) states that no well socialised dog will pin another dog to the ground. McConnell goes on to say that forcing your dog into a submissive position is a great way to cause them to become aggressive towards you as in their social framework, you are acting like a lunatic (McConnell, 2002).

Unfortunately, the idea of pack structure and dominance has many to believe that physical punishments are acceptable when training our dogs, since this is how wolves would discipline lower ranking wolves. However, according to a new veterinary study published in The Journal of Applied Animal Behaviour, if you use physical corrections to train your dog, you are likely to cause your dog to become aggressive (Yin, 2009)

The study looked at how owners corrected dogs for a number of issues, such as aggression towards other dogs or guarding resources, and how many of these dogs then became more aggressive, or bit their owner. The results are below:
“The highest frequency of aggression occurred in response to aversive (or punishing) interventions, even when the intervention was indirect:
• Hitting or kicking the dog (41% of owners reported aggression)
• Growling at the dog (41%)
• Forcing the dog to release an item from its mouth (38%)
• “Alpha roll” (forcing the dog onto its back and holding it down) (31%)
• “Dominance down” (forcing the dog onto its side) (29%)
• Grabbing the jowls or scruff (26%)
• Staring the dog down (staring at the dog until it looks away) (30%)
• Spraying the dog with water pistol or spray bottle (20%)
• Yelling “no” (15%)
• Forced exposure (forcibly exposing the dog to a stimulus – such as tile floors, noise or people –
that frightens the dog) (12%).

In contrast, non-aversive methods resulted in much lower frequency of aggressive responses:
• Training the dog to sit for everything it wants (only 2% of owners reported aggression)
• Rewarding the dog for eye contact (2%)
• Food exchange for an item in its mouth instead of forcing the item out (6%)
• Rewarding the dog for “watch me” (0%)” (Yin, 2009).

I personally have found this with my own rescue dog too. When I adopted nell at 5 years old, she
was being trained using alpha rolls and physical corrections, and had been for many years, due to her lack of socialisation leaving her reactive. Subsequently, she had gone on to bite her owners, and her behaviour got worse, rather than better. Faced with a very nervous, damaged and unsocial dog, I attempted to train her using positive reinforcement, confidence building obedience and negative punishment such as walking away. Her behaviour in general dramatically improved.

Some would argue against this evidence, and claim that dog’s do form hierarchy-based packs, since many multiple household dogs will fight over resources, and some can see a clear ‘pack leader’ who isn’t challenged. However, this behaviour can be explained differently if you look at it with new eyes.

It is a dog’s natural survival instinct to protect something that is of value to them, and some dogs have been bred to have a stronger desire to want certain things, for example, a spaniel will be much more likely to guard a tennis ball than a great Dane would, due to innate drives.

The Resource Holding Potential model explains why some dogs will guard an object from other dogs and some will not (Bradshaw, 2011). According to this model, when a conflict-of-interest arises, the dog is said to make a decision based on two questions: how much do I want this resource? and, how likely is the other dog to beat me in a fight if we fight for it? (and how much the other dog wants it/ is likely to fight for it) (Bradshaw, 2011). This model can be applied in the place of the dominance model to explain why fights break out regarding resources in the home, or how dogs keep the peace.

Therefore, dominance cannot be a personality trait, but rather something fluid that changes from situation to situation, as it is in humans. There are many situations like this, that could be looked at in a different way, and therefore be explained without dominance theory.

I believe that dominance-based training methods, are often harmful to our dogs, and do not address the causes behind behaviour problems, they merely attempt to control symptoms of behaviour problems.

Study (Vieira de Castro et al., 2020) after study (Blackwell, Twells, Seawright and Casey, 2008) after study (Schilder and van der Borg, 2004) has shown that dogs trained with dominance based techniques are far MORE likely to display aggression, experience more stress and have a lower score on problem solving and cognitive ability tests than dogs trained using positive reinforcement.

Canine behaviour science is new, which means theories are going to rapidly evolve and we owe it to our dogs to keep up. I too, grew up strongly believing in dominance training and have had to unlearn much that I took as gospel.
Bibliography of all studies quoted is available on request.
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
Is rewarding your dog bribery?
Using rewards in training was often frowned upon back in the day. Compulsion (force) was the method of choice for dog owners and trainers alike and the common misconception was that we should alpha/ boss our dogs into submission until they behaved. Dogs who couldn't be trained this way, were labelled dominant and often put to sleep.
Thankfully, canine behaviour science has come on a long way since then, and we are learning much more effective and humane ways to teach our dogs new things.
Reward based training, to the untrained eye, may appear to be bribery. However, rewarding your dog is not bribery. It is harnessing the power of operant and classical conditioning, using strategically timed reinforcers to drive the production of behaviour and change negative conditioned emotional responses.
By definition 'a bribe is to dishonestly persuade (someone) to act in one's favour by a gift of money or other inducement.'
Rewarding good behaviour, on the other hand, is pairing something your dog desires with a behaviour you want to repeat, in order to increase the frequency of this behaviour.
In operant conditioning, it is the consequence of the behaviour that drives the behaviour. We are not showing our dog a treat so they do something we like, we are using a treat as a consequence to a behaviour, to increase the chances the dog will choose to repeat it.
Using rewards can also change conditioned emotional responses, these are usually negative/fearful behaviours in response to stimulus that have been learnt, such as a fear of other dogs after negative experience with them. Sticking with this example, When we reward good behaviour around other dogs, due to a process called classical conditioning, our dog also learns to associate a reward with a situation they may have previously found scary, for example seeing another dog, and therefore becomes happy on sight of another dog, anticipating a reward.
If we were to instead only punish our dogs negative behaviour around other dogs, classical conditioning would ensure that our dogs strengthens their negative conditioned emotional response to other dogs, by learning another dog always equals a punishment.
Studies have shown that punitive training increases the likelihood of aggressive behaviour down the line, reducing confidence, causes the release of stress hormones that hinder learning and reduces a dogs confidence.
Rewards aactivate the dopamine reward system in the brain. This is the area of the brain that tells the dog to repeat this behaviour. Dopamine is rocket fuel for learning, so where we can, harnessing the use of rewards will massively speed up the learning process.
Furthermore, by using rewards we are building our dogs confidence, and their bond with us. Bond is so overlooked in dog training, but the best behaved dogs in the world are the ones who have the strongest bond with their owners.
What an onlooker may see, is someone bribing their dog to ignore another dog with a treat. What we see, is a dog choosing to ignore another dog after many weeks of practice, instead of reacting fearfully towards it, and being rewarded for this choice, so they are likely to repeat it in the future.
Good trainers will effectively use intermittent reward schedules to ensure that the behaviour we want to teach will be practiced wether a reward is present or not.
So don't think of rewarding your dog as bribery, think of it as payment. If you go to work, you expect to get paid, if your dog does something you like, they are much more likely to do it again if this is rewarded.
Reward based training is not being passive, it is not bribery and it is not ignoring bad behaviour. These are just common misconceptions for those who don't understand basic canine psychology.
Our aim is to not let our dogs misbehave, and ply then with treats so they will listen, instead we have a great understanding of the complex motivators that drive unwanted behaviour and how to effectively unravel and rewire these.

by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
Does well trained = not aggressive?
NOPE!
If you have owned a dog who barks / growls or otherwise displays space creating behaviours towards other dogs or humans, you've probably heard someone shout something along the lines of " get that thing trained!!"
Dog behaviour is massively misunderstood by the general public, unfortunately hugely due to the popularity of hocus pocus dog training TV programmes.
Here's the thing, the most obedient dogs in the world can still dislike other dogs.
Training tricks, obedience and sports for the most part is pretty easy. It might take time, and it might depend on the natural drives of your dog, but most dogs can reach a high level of obedience with time.
Behaviour ' problems' ( I use that word loosely, as actually these behaviours are completely normal for dogs, and only an inconvenience to humans) are not the same as tricks. When a dog struggles to cope on the presence of other dogs/ people/ traffic, this is often a conditioned emotional response. Similar to how you react when a spider falls from a ceiling and lands on you. Conditioned emotional responses are survival techniques, hard wired in the brain to keep us safe. They ensure when we see a certain stimulus (for example, spider) we react with space creating behaviours ( screaming & running) in order to avoid being hurt. They are often learned from a negative experience.
CER's are very difficult to overcome and take lots of time, patience, love and understanding. Working with a trainer will help you to know how to do this safely & effectively, but it will not make the behaviour go away in a few weeks. In fact, when reactivity is caused by isolation or trauma during the critical learning period (0-4 months of age) the dog is likely to suffer with reactivity in some way or another for life, due to the way their brain has developed.
I personally know some insanely well trained sport dogs, who are dog/human aggressive ( but you wouldn't realise, because they are managed very well). On the flip side, I know plenty of dogs who have not had a day of training in their life, who don't struggle with aggression.
As long as the owner Is keeping others safe to the best of their ability, and doing their best to help their dog, they do not deserve any abuse!
So please don't be that person who shouts "get that dog trained!" Be the person who shouts " Dont worry, I'll cross over !" Or " That's okay, I'll wait here while you pass!".
There are three problems with that statement.
1. Training a reactive / aggressive dog takes months or even years. Some never fully recover. It's not as easy as " just get them trained".
2. That person probably has a much higher level of obedience training than you do, and could be working with a rescue dog.
3. Well trained doesn't always mean emotionally sound!
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
Mantrailing is a dog sport that teaches you and your dog to find a "missing person" by following their scent. It is the most inclusive of all dog sports and is suitable for nervous dogs, reactive dogs, old dogs, young dogs, friendly dogs, excitable dogs, dog's without basic training, dog's who cant recall and everything in-between!

Do you want to?...
  • Build a great relationship with your dog.
  • Increase your dogs confidence.
  • Spend time having fun outdoors.
  • Attend a fun social activity on a regular basis.
  • Give your dog a Job.
  • Do more with your dog.

Mantrailing is a low impact sport, which unlike some sports means there is less pressure and stress on your dogs joints. As well as providing physical exercise, Mantrailing also engages your dog's incredible olfactory senses, giving them an intense mental workout. Providing your dog with a job is fantastic for their mental well-being, and mantrailing can assist in building your dog's confidence in unfamiliar situations. We go at your dogs pace, using only positive reinforcement. There is no pressure for dog or owner, all Mantrailing qualifications / assessments are optional and you can attend for fun, or to earn your Mantrailing grades.

Most importantly, its fantastic fun for both you and your dog.

Man-trailing sessions will last 2-3 hours and take place in various locations around Scarborough. Dog's are worked one at a time, so this sport is suitable for dog-reactive dog's and trails can be adapted for human reactive or nervous dogs too. Our booking form will allow you to provide us with all the information we need about your dog.

Progression is endless, and we can challenge our dog's to do amazing things! For example, we have had dogs complete trails which are hours old, contaminated by other people and dogs. We have had dogs trail from bitten food, to find the person who ate it! We have had dog's complete split trails, where multiple people walk the same trail before spliting off, challenging the dog to follow only the right one.

All participants must complete an introduction workshop before attending regular training sessions. This is to ensure the foundations and safety aspects of training are covered in detail.

Introduction workshops are now available to book, and regular sessions are available too.
Follow the link bellow, or contact me directly, to secure your space!
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
You do not need to physically tire your dog out every day!

Many people are under the belief that a tired dog is a happy dog, and that the purpose of a walk is to run your dog into the ground until he can barely breathe.

While that will likely make your dog sleep once he gets home, it will also increase his stamina. Every time you run your dog to exhaustion you are increasing their fitness and therefore making them harder to tire out. You end up with a canine athlete, who is impossible to tire and very easy to excite/ frustrate.

A dog can be physically tired, and mentally the complete opposite. In fact, games like fetch are extremely exciting and frustrating, meaning they are likely to leave a dog mentally frustrated/ pent up.

The main purpose of a walk, contrary to popular belief, is mental excercise - not physical exercise.

Socialisation, sniffing, seeing the outside world, learning and exploring are extremely mentally tiring and release a huge array of happy calming chemicals, leaving your dog relaxed and mentally exhausted without building stamina.
Providing your dog with an outlet for mental stimulation every day, is actually much more tiring and much more beneficial than running them to the point of physical exhaustion daily.

So don't worry if you dog is still not tired at the end of his walk. Try doing some scatter feeding, licky mats, food puzzles, trick training, sniffing games, chewing games, digging or any of the many forms of mental enrichment we can supply our dogs with. Then, on those days you do want to really tire your dog, it'll be much easier to do!

Don't take this to say dogs don't need a walk. Just like you need to leave your house, your dog needs to see the outside world in order to maintain good mental health. Socialisation/habituation can be temporary, so spending a long time inside can cause phobias and fears to develop towards things such as cars, people or dogs. A walk is your dogs only real chance to be a dog.

For reactive or fearful dogs, walks can be very stressful. For those dogs, less walks are actually much better for them, to keep stress levels low.

However, spending that walk sniffing, seeing new things and exploring, with a small controlled game of fetch and maybe some tricks is much more beneficial than spending an hour running up and down a hill until he physically can't do any more!

A shift towards a focus on mental enrichment for our dogs is hugely beneficial for their mental health and wellbeing.
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
The dangers of fatal blue green algae after the heatwave
Blue green algae isn't actually algae, it is a type of bacteria which exists in still bodies of water. Long spells of hot weather cause this bacteria to bloom. In high numbers, the bacteria releases toxins into the water which are fatal to fish, wildlife and dogs. They are also harmful to humans too.
There is no antidote, and in most cases of blue green algae poison dogs will unfortunately not make it. If you suspect your dog could have come into contact with blue green algae, immediate veterinary intervention is the only way to give them a chance of survival.
Swimming in lakes and ponds with algae ( the plant) is not harmful, and there is no need to worry about algae or other water plants growing in the water. Blue green algae, the bacteria, causes a green and sometimes foamy scum on the surface of the water. There may be a foul smell and the water will look dirty. It is not always immediately obvious, and can sometimes look like brown foam, or green colouration around the edges of water.
This website shows all the UK's confirmed or suspected cases of blue green algae blooms. With pictures so you can better identify them. In Popular areas, water is tested for this toxin so always check for signs before entering the water or allowing your dog to swim.
If in doubt, stay out!
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
PUPPY BLUES
Have you heard of them? No one tells you about puppy blues when you plan on bringing home a new puppy. And many feel alone/ ashamed. Puppy blues are the feelings of sadness and regret that most puppy owners go through at some point in puppy hood, including us professionals.
Puppies are adorable, we fall in love with them instantly. But unfortunately this does not make up for the intense and difficult period of puppyhood where they are mentally and physically draining.
You are not alone!
It is completely normal to feel overwhelmed, question your decisions and feel uncertain about the future with your puppy. It is completely normal to feel like you're not enjoying puppyhood like you should be.
Here are some tips to help you through puppy blues:
  • Mantras! Tell yourself " This will pass, puppyhood is not forever, you can do this!".
  • Crates, Pens / baby gates. Get your puppy accustomed to being penned from a young age. When you need some peace to get a bit of coursework done or have a cuppa, having somewhere safe for your puppy to go is a godsend.
  • Puppy proof! If your puppy is chewing the rug up. Roll it up and take it upstairs. If your puppy is constantly stealing books, empty the lower shelves. Give yourself a break! Prevention is better than cure, yes you can redirect your puppy from things they shouldn't have every two seconds or you could just, where possible, remove it entirely.
  • Remember your puppy doesn't have to be perfect. No dog is!
  • Remember puppies can overcome many behaviour problems. This isn't forever.
  • Enlist the help of a professional dog trainer, they will help you understand what is and isn't normal, and how to deal with any problem behaviours properly.
  • Nap time! Puppies need a ton of sleep. Overstimulated puppies are horrible. Tired puppies are horrible. If your puppy is acting out, they probably need to do less, and they probably need putting down for a nap, even if you have to enforce it.
  • Mental enrichment for example: Trick training, sniffing games, carrying them around busy places. Are all great ways to interact with your puppy in a healthy way, and encourage them to take a nice long nap.
  • Enlist the help of friends and family. An afternoon off can make a big difference.
Puppyhood will fly by, try to enjoy as much as you can
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
Suppressing behaviour isn't fixing behaviour.
You'll see lots of videos, particularly from " tiktok" dog trainers of dogs seemingly "cured" of dog or human aggression to the untrained eye.
It's easy to forget but dogs are not computer programs you can wipe clean and re-write. A dog with aggression issues, is likely to be suffering a lack of confidence and frustration issues linked to lack of socialisation or a lack of experience. They are then displaying a well practiced response to certain triggers that will take months or years to overcome.
Punish the dog severely enough, for example with an electric shock however, and this behaviour, for some dogs, will look like it has stopped. The dog will walk past triggers without displaying natural space creating behaviours as he did before.
What you have done here, is mentally shut the dog down and turned them into a ticking time bomb. You've punished out their communication, so they stop communicating, but they have not stopped being fearful or aggressive. When the threat no longer is present, aggression will resurface and be much more severe.
Study after study has shown that dogs trained in this manner, are much more likely to display aggression of all kinds later in life, particularly aggression towards the handler. But these trainers don't care, because they've got your money and your " results" at the dogs expense.
Remember, no qualifications are required to be a dog trainer. Anyone can go out tomorrow and call themselves a professional, damaging dogs left right and centre and making a killing doing it. Choose your trainer wisely, and ensure they are fully qualified ( not with a £13 dog course they got on Facebook) and don't do anything to your dog that makes you feel uncomfortable.
There is so much more to "fixing" a dog than punishing the behaviour, it's much more complex than that, and those qualified will do this properly with lasting, realistic, results with the dog and your welfare in mind.
It's about time this industry was regulated, because the videos of "trainers" are very worrying.
by Katherine Edwards 20 Mar, 2024
Why I don’t use punishment or aversives whilst training a reactive dog.
( Sharing this wonderful post written by @doberacademy)

1. They don’t teach an alternative behaviour
Aversives or punishment doesn’t teach my dog what to do instead. You can't change a behaviour, without teaching an alternative behaviour you want... It doesn't happen. It doesn’t teach my dog to engage with me in a more relaxed and reinforcing manner. It doesn’t build trust or relationship and definitely doesn’t build a partnership between us.

2. They teach negative associations.
I don’t want my dog’s behaviour to become worse around his triggers. I don’t want him to become more fearful when he sees another dog. This would mean he has double the stress & fear! That of the other dog and what happen to him if he reacts! I don’t want to make him feel like that. Punishment and aversive tools & techniques will re-enforce that there is plenty to fear around other dogs and may even make the behaviour worse.

3. Punishment & Aversives suppress natural body language, signals and warnings.
Punishment works in the moment and suppresses our dog’s emotions and feelings. It may make us feel better having dealt with the situation and controlled our dog but in reality what training have we achieved and how does our dog feel having suppressed his emotions in order to avoid pain in the situation?

Remember we are dealing with what our dog is feeling - not his obedience.
Why can’t my dog just sit and chill?
- If that worked there would be no reactive dogs
Forcing your dog into a sit (if indeed they can even manage that in a situation) only serves to increase the stress/frustration level, the kindest thing to do for your dog is move him quickly away from the trigger whilst you are in the process of teaching him alternative ways to cope and behave.

Can my dog “get over it”?
Reactive dogs can be taught to feel differently about their “triggers” with their owner’s consistent patience, help & guidance. We may not always be able to completely eliminate the fear or stress of a trigger but we can definitely help our dog to learn to cope better and teach him more appropriate behaviours around them.
I prefer my dog to trust me and feel safe in my presence knowing that I will take good care of him and show him the way.
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